JOHNNY B'S,

At one time, John Esposito waited tables and David Baccari chefed at the modest but first-rate Plaza Grille on Federal Hill. Now, at the Cranston diner they opened in 1990, modesty has been replaced with downright funkiness. Knotty-pine walls are decorated with everything from turn-of-the-century wedding photos to an autographed Connie Francis publicity shot to a poster-sized Kate Smith picture and a 1940s pinup calendar. Prior to our visit, we'd been informed by fellow brunch supplicants that on weekends it was unusual not to find a line. And before we even tasted a bite, we understood why. Weekend-only brunch choices were outlined on a nearby chalkboard, most costing only about $6. These included such interesting-sounding possibilities as French toast on custard with raspberry sauce and such welcome standards as a Greek omelet with feta and spinach. I had an omelet ($6.25) that was packed with leeks and potatoes and topped with Provolone and tangy sun-dried tomato sauce. My partner had strata with chicken sausage ($6.25) -- a dish she pronounced "very sausagey." And you gotta love a place that has the following request on its menu: "Limiting or omitting the use of tobacco is often appreciated." When you see guilt versus edict being employed for moral persuasion, you know the cooks have been raised in the right kitchens.

Full review.